Knowledge Based Framework for Extended Textile Circulation​

Project Information

tExtended

Grant agreement ID: 101091575

DOI

10.3030/101091575

EC signature date 23 November 2022

Start date 1 December 2022

End date 30 November 2026

Funded under

• Digital, Industry and Space

Total cost

€ 14 860 675,25

EU contribution

€ 12 345 596,00

Coordinated by

TEKNOLOGIAN TUTKIMUSKESKUS VTT OY
Finland

Periodic Reporting for period 2 - tExtended (Knowledge Based Framework for Extended Textile Circulation​)

Reporting period: 2024-06-01 to 2025-11-30

Summary of the context and overall objectives of the project

Currently, textile production and consumption are unsustainable, with the linear model generating large amounts of waste. The European Commission’s Strategy for Sustainable Textiles aims to reverse this trend. Transformation towards more sustainable circular textile ecosystem require both new knowledge and practical development, and various technological and non-technological challenges needs to be solved. In this context, the tExtended project develops Blueprint, i.e. a masterplan for circular textile ecosystem, and an innovative knowledge-based conceptual framework for routing of for different discarded textile flows. It will be designed to optimize textile flows with ensuring retention the value of materials in a safe and sustainable way. We will also develop wide range of technological and digital solutions necessary for a sustainable and circular textile industry. Our blueprint as well as technological and digital solutions will be assessed by implementing a real scale demonstrator of a circular textile ecosystem. The overall objective of the project is to show potential of reduction of textile waste by 80% compared to stage before separate collection of textile waste was started. Actions needed to achieve this include reduction of industrial waste, extended reuse of textile products, and efficient material recycling of end-of-life textiles. Our multidisciplinary group of experts and actors in the ecosystem will ensure the feasibility of the model in different European regions.

Work performed from the beginning of the project to the end of the period covered by the report and main results achieved so far

Circular ecosystem research in WP1 has continued since the publication of the ecosystem description at the end of the previous period. System dynamics modelling (T1.3) has shown great potential as a method for predicting and forecasting developments in the circular system. Visioning work for the Hub for Circularity (T1.3) has commenced, while the Social Innovation Spin-off (T1.4) will test the implementation of circularity from a societal perspective.

Process development activities related sorting and pre-treatments (in WP2) and textile recycling (in WP3) address technological gaps on circular transformation. Predictive models have been created from experimental data: one model determines PES/CO ratios in blend samples using identification data, and another supports mechanical recycling based on fiber quality. A variety of sorting, pre-treatment, and recycling methods—including mechanical, thermo-mechanical, and chemical approaches—have reached sufficiently high TRL levels for use in demonstrator activities.

A data-sharing infrastructure and traceability tool have been developed to meet project needs (T4.2 & T2.1). Both the DPP tool (T2.1) and the Conceptual Framework tool “Textendifier” (T4.3 & T2.1) are ready for evaluation in upcoming demonstrator activities. The real scale demonstrator and the replication potential study (in WP3), initiated during this period, will yield regional data on circularity progress across various European regions.

The real scale demonstrator has been designed to incorporate most processes studied or developed across WP2 and WP3, as well as the digital tools created in WP2 and WP4. Implementation is ongoing (T5.2) with main successes so far in fiber mechanical recycling and the application of the traceability tool to track material flows. Work has also begun on outlining the Blueprint—a masterplan for the future textile ecosystem—into publishable form through collaboration that integrates insights from all WPs. The replication potential study (T5.3) has been planned to further assess the scalability of the blueprint and demonstrator models. WP6 encompasses the adoption of methodologies evaluation of sustainability of developed technologies (WP2 & WP3) and the demonstrator (WP5).

Progress beyond the state of the art and expected potential impact (including the socio-economic impact and the wider societal implications of the project so far)

We determined in proposal four Impact pathways with specific solutions including 1) Knowledge based and digitally enabled circular textile ecosystem, 2) Efficient textile recovery, 3) Waste valorization and recycling, and 4) Systemic, sustainable and safe circularity of textiles. During the project we have combined pathways 1 and 4 under one topic – 1) Enablers, thus grouping our results under three themes.

Within the ‘Enablers’ pathway we have developed digital tools. Traceability tool is used in project to track all materials and production within our real scale demonstrator. Also textile router tool and DPP tool will be demonstrated within the last year of the project. Furthermore, work done regarding textile waste classification is supporting standardization work, and training materials support citizen engagement in circular economy.

Under the topic of ‘Efficient textile recovery’ one partner has improved textile collecting concept enabling higher quality and another partner developed new sorting concept and new second hand concept stores for a new customer group. Results also include predictive model for PES-CO ratio based on hyperspectral imaging and a new kind of sorting machine for cut textile pieces. Color and PVC removal and processes can be used as pre-treatment for textile waste, and within various identification, sorting, and waste valorization processes it is possible improve recyclability of mixed textile waste and fractions considered typically challenging to recycle like multicolor, blended, coated and laminated textiles.

Multiple results have been obtained related to ‘Waste valorization and recycling’. Predictive model of mechanical recycling has been built based on experimental data, and one partner is exploiting new quality concept for mechanical recycling. We have showcased higher contents of secondary materials originated from post-consumer textile waste compared to the SotA (typically 10-20%): up to 33 % with traditional mechanical recycling, and up to 50 % with soft mechanical recycling applied. Multiple partners are applying high post-consumer contents in development of new materials and products and service concepts.